Contrast is a commonly used feature in image editing apps like Affinity and Photoshop. When you take a photo, the camera automatically determines the exposure and captures a safe average value, and then you adjust the brightness and contrast based on your own sensibilities. Depending on how the work will be used, it may be preferable for it to be too bright or too dark, and the same goes for contrast.
The app's contrast slider can be adjusted between -50 and +100 for Adobe, and ±100 for Affinity. Adobe changes to a softer contrast, while Affinity changes to a harder contrast. We've reviewed this process and created something that retains the three-dimensional feel and gradation as much as possible. It's divided into two Luts with ±. The -Lut can go up to -50, matching Adobe's standards.
With the image editing app "Affinity" and the video editing app "DaVinci Resolve" now available for free, anyone with a computer can now apply Luts.
This is the original image. Multiply this by contrast +100. 16-bit mode.
Set Adobe's default contrast slider to +100.
Even if you change it to 霜枝U1+, the opacity will be 100% and it will look the same.
There is a slight difference when comparing in detail, but it is barely noticeable. Looking at the histogram, you can see that the amount of information is slightly different. Adobe is slightly softer, while 霜枝U1+ has a more three-dimensional feel. However, it is very slight.
Now let's do the same test under difficult lighting conditions.
It looks slightly lighter because it's softer, but it's actually the same.
硬It is tightly packed and looks slightly dark.
This difference is reflected in the difference between the "average" and "standard deviation" values. In addition to the subtle change in impression, there is also a change in the effect when different corrections are used in combination. There is a difference in the deterioration of the image. This is more important in monochrome, which places more importance on tone than color.
I converted it to black and white using U3±0 and also set the contrast to +100. The background in Adobe is blurred, but the "霜枝" are clearly drawn. Although it's only a small amount, I tried to avoid losing as much information as possible.
The Shimoeda U1 also has a minus, but this is simply a result of reversing the algorithm. This kind of detail is extremely important, especially when using old lenses, so as a small shop that reproduces classics, we developed it as something we couldn't do without.
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